How to use cinnamon in cooking
The right technique, from stick to powder, learned from Madagascar growers
Arnaud Sion — Vanilla & Spice Hunter
Founder of Le Comptoir de Toamasina (Since 2010)
From Madagascar to Brazil, I learn directly in the field with farmers to bring you the techniques of the spice masters.
The first time I crumbled freshly rolled Ceylon cinnamon bark between my fingers in Madagascar, I realized that everything I thought I knew about this spice came from a dusty supermarket jar. What I held smelled of light wood, warm sugar, and subtle citrus—nothing like the harsh, burning note so many people associate with cinnamon. Ever since, I tell my customers the same thing: cinnamon isn't something to endure; it's something to master. Used properly, it becomes the aromatic backbone of a dish. Used poorly, it overwhelms it. Here is what fifteen years of field tasting and cooking have taught me about using it right.
Which cinnamon to choose for cooking?
It all starts with selecting the bark, which is where most recipes fail before they even begin. Two major varieties exist that are far too often lumped together. On one side is Ceylon cinnamon, the variety I bring back from my field trips, identifiable by its thin, multi-layered rolls that crumble like delicate paper. On the other is Cassia, thicker, harder, hollow, and dominating store shelves because it is cheaper to produce.
On the palate, the difference is striking. Ceylon is delicate, floral, slightly citrusy, with an elegant, lingering finish. Cassia is bold, warm, slightly pungent, with a richness that works in gingerbread but easily overpowers delicate ingredients. For fine pastry, custards, and poached white fruits, I always choose Ceylon. For robust stews, tajines, or rich mulled wine, Cassia holds its ground against strong flavors. Knowing which one you have completely changes how you dose it.
At my spice counter, I always have customers smell both side by side. Nine out of ten people, once they smell Ceylon, never go back to Cassia for their desserts. The nose doesn't lie.
Braided brioches flavored with Madagascar cinnamon, a Sunday morning staple.
| Criterion | Ceylon Cinnamon | Cassia |
|---|---|---|
| Bark | Thin, multi-layered rolls, brittle | Thick, hard, hollow quill |
| Aroma | Delicate, floral, citrus notes | Bold, warm, slightly pungent |
| Best for | Custards, white fruits, fine baking | Stews, robust warm drinks |
| Dosing | Generous application possible | Caution, builds strength fast |
Sticks vs powder: when to use which?
This question comes up every week. My answer comes down to a simple principle: sticks infuse, powder coats. They aren't just two shapes of the same product—they are two distinct culinary tools.
I slip whole sticks into anything that simmers for a long time in liquid: milk for custards, syrups, rice pudding, or slow-cooked stews. The stick releases its essential oils gradually without altering texture, and can be removed at the end just like a bay leaf. It's clean, progressive, and lets you control intensity by adjusting infusion time.
Ground powder, on the other hand, is designed to blend into batters, coatings, and dry mixes: cake batters, crumbles, or dusting over a cappuccino and roasted apples. Its greatest strength is also its drawback: it releases aroma instantly but loses freshness quickly once ground. I always recommend grating a piece of cinnamon stick freshly with a Microplane rather than keeping a large jar of ground powder. Freshly grated cinnamon is a revelation.
When to use sticks
Anything cooked in hot liquids: infused milk, syrups, rice pudding, stews, mulled wine. Infuse, then remove.
When to use powder
Anything dry or thick: cake batters, crumbles, dry rubs, last-minute dusting. Grate right before serving.
When to add cinnamon during cooking?
Timing determines everything, and adding cinnamon at the wrong stage is the most common mistake I see. Its aromatic compounds are volatile: excessive, direct heat destroys them, leaving behind only woody bitterness. Conversely, a cold dish won't draw out the spice's full character.
When using a stick in a slow stew, add it early so it infuses gradually. For ground powder in quick preparations, add it near the end over gentle heat to bloom the flavor without scorching. In baking, it mixes into the batter and bakes safely within the moist dough. For beverages, steep off the heat under a lid to trap essential oils. These simple steps make the difference between flat flavor and vibrant aroma.
How to dose without overpowering a dish?
Cinnamon is generous but assertive. Too much, and your dish tastes like candy. My golden rule at the counter: you can always add more, but you can never take it out. Start light, taste, then adjust.
For a concrete guideline, half a teaspoon of ground powder is plenty for a 6-to-8-portion cake if the cinnamon is fresh. A single stick flavors a full liter of milk or syrup. In savory dishes where cinnamon serves as a background note, use even less—a subtle pinch. High-quality Ceylon cinnamon requires less volume than stale powder because its essential oils are fully intact. That is the beauty of fine spices: the better they are, the less you need.
Always start with less than what the recipe calls for, especially with fresh cinnamon. A vibrant spice carries far more aroma than stale store-bought powder.
Cinnamon in savory dishes: a natural fit?
Cinnamon is too often restricted to sweet desserts. That overlooks global culinary traditions where it excels in savory preparations. In lamb tajines, couscous, and slow-cooked Mediterranean and Middle Eastern stews, it brings a warm roundness that softens rich meats and balances tomato acidity. In Greek cooking, it accents meat sauces. In India, it anchors complex curry masalas.
In my own kitchen, a single stick in a chicken stock adds remarkable depth without anyone identifying the spice specifically. That is its secret in savory cooking: it shouldn't stand out; it should support. I also love a pinch of ground cinnamon in sweet potato or squash purée to highlight the vegetable's natural sweetness. Try it in a tajine, on roasted carrots, or in a lentil stew.
- A stick in a lamb tajine or chicken stock
- A pinch over roasted squash or sweet potato purée
- A subtle touch in slow-simmered tomato sauce
- A hint in rice pilaf or couscous
How to elevate desserts and drinks?
While desserts are cinnamon's natural playground, there is still much to explore. Pairing it with fruit is timeless: apples, pears, quinces, as well as roasted bananas and caramelized pineapple, where Ceylon cinnamon works magic without heavy sweetness. In custards, rice pudding, or flans, infusing a stick provides an elegance ground powder cannot match.
In beverages, I use it year-round. In winter, in mulled wine or rich hot chocolate for cozy warmth. Throughout the rest of the year, cold-infused in iced tea, placed in a coffee filter with dark roast, or in citrus-infused water. I frequently pair cinnamon with other favorite spices—a vanilla bean, star anise, or a few whole peppercorns for mulled wine with real character.
How to store it for maximum flavor?
Fine cinnamon deserves proper protection, or all the careful sourcing is wasted. Air is enemy number one, followed by light and heat. I store whole sticks in an airtight glass jar away from light and direct stove heat. Whole sticks retain their essential oils for a very long time, often well over a year without fading.
Ground powder, however, is fragile. Once ground, it loses its fragrance within months. That is why I always advise buying whole sticks and grating as needed with a Microplane. This guarantees day-one intensity every time. It's far better to keep a few lasting whole sticks than a large jar of dull powder.
A simple test I do at the counter: scrape the bark of a stick and smell it. If the fragrance bursts out instantly, the spice is vibrant. If you have to strain to smell it, it's time to replace it.
Cook with vibrant, single-origin cinnamon
Discover my directly sourced cinnamons and Madagascar spices at Le Comptoir de Toamasina to bring true depth and character to your kitchen.
Discover my spicesFrequently asked questions
Can I replace a cinnamon stick with ground powder?
Yes, in a pinch, using roughly half a teaspoon of ground powder per stick, but the culinary result will differ. A stick infuses gently and is removed; powder stays in the dish and adds body. For smooth custards or clear liquids, stick with whole sticks.
Is cinnamon good for health?
Cinnamon has been used for centuries in global culinary traditions and is cherished for its comforting aroma. I present it here as a culinary ingredient meant for enjoyment. For any health-related questions, consult your medical doctor.
How do I recognize real Ceylon cinnamon?
Look at the bark: Ceylon consists of paper-thin layers rolled together, brittle like parchment. Cassia forms a thick, hard, single-layer tube. On the nose, Ceylon is floral and subtly citrusy, whereas Cassia is bolder and spicier.